Unearthing the Mysteries of Ancient Cornwall
West Penwith is rich in ancient sites, spanning almost 4000 years of pre-history.
Here are just a few of our favourite sites to visit: (content in development)
- Carn Euny
- Chysauster
- Boscawen-Un
- Carn Kenidjack
- Chapel Carn Brae
- Chun Quoit
Iron Age houses
Whereas most of the Neolithic dwellings in Britain were roughly rectangular in plan, from the Bronze Age onwards, with the arrival of the Beaker migrants until the arrival of the Romans, the houses tended to be round!
They typically had a conical thatch roof supported by a circle of timber posts. The doorway often faced east, or southeast towards the winter solstice sunrise, where light would come in for the longest period.
The inner space was divided between storage and working areas near the door where the light was. On the opposite side would be the sleeping area, safer away from the door maybe! From the central fire, the smoke would percolate through the thatch or be channelled out via a gully.
Courtyard houses were common in West Cornwall like at Carn Euny and Chysauster, both of which date from the early Romano-British period. Here the dwellings comprised a cluster of rooms and byers opening on to an enclosed yard.
Carn Euny
Iron Age Village
Carn Euny is a well preserved Iron Age village with a number of courtyard houses. It was first settled around 500 BC and remained occupied until the late Roman period.
Carn Euny is more than just an archaeological site, it’s a direct link to our past, that whispers secrets of ancient civilisations.
I’s a wonderful day out with the family exploring and imagining the lives of our ancestors.
The Courtyard Houses
The village boasts the remains of a number of courtyard houses, unique to West Cornwall. These semi-circular structures are thought have been communal homes, animal pens and workshops. The design reflects a sophisticated understanding of space and community, hinting at a society that valued both functionality and aesthetics.
Exploring the Fogou
Its most striking feature is the Fogou, a Cornish word meaning “cave” which is a mysterious underground passage. The purpose of these fogous remains a puzzle, with theories ranging from storage to ritualistic use.
The Fogou stretches for about 20 metres and is built from large slabs of granite, creating an eerie, cool atmosphere underground with some amazing, bright green, fluorescent moss!
Some suggest it was used for food storage. Others believe it held a more spiritual significance. Whatever its purpose, standing inside the Fogou is a humbling experience, connecting you directly to an ancient world.
You can wander around the ruins, step into the Fogou, and let your imagination run free, piecing together the stories of those who lived here.
You can’t help but feel a connection to the past, imagining the daily lives of those who once called at home.
There are even two circular depressions in the courtyard which are thought to be where the villagers ground their barley or oats.
If you want to find out more, have a look at this YouTube history documentary by ‘Survive the Jive’.
Chysauster
Perched on the granite slopes of Cornwall, Chysauster is an archaeological treasure trove that offers a captivating glimpse into Iron Age Britain. This ancient village, dating back nearly 2000 years, is one of the best preserved examples of a Romano-British settlement in the UK.
A window into the past
Chysauster was inhabited from around 100 BC to A.D. 400. The site is best known for its unique courtyard houses, which are semicircular in design and thought to have accommodated extended family groups. Walking through the ruins, visitors can sense the community spirit that once thrived here.
The courtyard houses
The eight courtyard houses are a marvel of ancient engineering. These stone structures include rooms arranged around an open central space, which likely served as a communal area for cooking, socialising and working. The walls of these houses, some still standing to shoulder height, are a testament to the builders’ skill and ingenuity.
The village layout
Chysauster’s layout reflects a well-planned settlement, with houses arranged along a central street. This organisation suggests a structured society with a strong sense of community. Archaeologists have also discovered evidence of gardens, indicating that the residents practised horticulture and perhaps even small-scale farming.
The enigmatic Fogou
Similar to Carn Euny, Chysauster features a Fogou, an underground passage whose purpose remains a mystery. Theories about Fogous range from storage facilities to ritual spaces. The Fogou at Chysauster is to add an element of intrigue, inviting visitors to ponder its ancient significance.
Chysauster stands as a silent witness to centuries of human history. Its well-preserved remains offer a rare opportunity to connect with the past and appreciate the ingenuity and resilience of the people who once lived there. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a casual visitor, Chysauster promises a fascinating journey through time.
Visiting Chysauster
Chysauster is run by English Heritage and there is a charge to enter (Adult £7.20, Child £4.00 or Family £11.20).
For full details visit the English Heritage webpage for Chysauster.
Lucas Nott has produced this YouTube video of a walk around Chysauster. He says that what we see today dates from between the 1st century to 3rd century AD and that Chysauster was occupied for around 200 years. Although it is unknown why the inhabitants moved, it is thought that they left the settlement peacefully.
Boscawen-Un Stone Circle
Boscawen-Un is our favourite stone circle! It lies near the town of St Buryan, off the A30, surrounded by farmland and moorland.
Dating back to the Bronze Age, this ancient stone circle is steeped in legend and mystery. It has fascinated historians, archaeologist, and tourists alike for centuries.
A Circle of Stones
Boscawwen-Un dates from the Chalcolithic, or Copper Age, when knowledge of metal making first entered Britain, but when the way of life still remained largely rooted in the traditions of the Neolithic.
It is composed of 18 grey granite upright stones and one of gleaming white quartz stone arranged in an oval shape, with a single leaning menhir at the centre.
The purpose of these stone circles remains debated, with theories ranging from ceremonial and ritualistic functions to astronomical observatories. In its day, near the autumn equinox, the shadow cast by the Central stone would have touch the white stone to the west. Astronomical alignment such as this are common feature of stone circles. The white quartz stone may equally indicate the position of the rising or setting moon as a key point in the annual lunar cycle.
The White Quartz Stone
No doubt that numinous quality of the white stone, and the fact that it emits a magical green spark when struck, would have fascinated our Bronze Age ancestors who frequently deposited flakes of knapped or crushed quartz in graves. Across the world and through different ages, courts is also closely connected to the practices of shamans and shamanism.
Quartz is an essential ingredient for making moulds and crucibles used in metal casting. It melts at a much higher temperature than copper or tin. Without it there would have been no Bronze Age!
The Leaning Stone
The central monolith, sometimes called the long stone, rises about 2.7 m high and tilts slightly to the Southwest. It is a striking feature and adds an element of intrigue to the site. It is believed to have some celestial significance, potentially aligning with the summer solstice sunrise.
This suggests that Boscawen-Un, like many stone circles, may have been used to mark important astronomical events, connecting the ancient inhabitants of Cornwall to the cosmos.
At a time when people were moving from being hunter gatherers to farmers, I believe knowledge of the seasons – when the days began to shorten or lengthen – in order to know when to plant or harvest crops was essential for survival! Maybe more practical than romantic, but truly essential for survival, these seasonal clocks were so important as to become places of what might be called worship. That’s my interpretation of these stone circles! I don’t think they would’ve gone to all that trouble to drag these stones and place them for purely decorative or ritualistic reasons. For me they had a vital purpose!
Intriguing Carvings
You can make out relief carvings at the base of the stone, possibly depictions of two axeheads…. or, maybe it is two feet, and above, two circles…. or, maybe, breasts.
If you’re intrigued by this have a look at this YouTube video by The Pre-History Guys
This is my favourite stone!! I don’t know why, I’m just drawn to it!
Oshie just loves them all and every time we go there he has a delightful zoomie all around the site. He loves jumping on the Quartz stone and the central menhir!
Hungry for more information about Ancient Penwith?
If you are interested in learning more about the wonderful ancient sites of West Penwith, have a look at this you tube video!
Laura Ratcliffe-Warren, Ancient Penwith Officer at Penwith Landscape Partnership, offers a whistle-stop tour of almost 10,000 years of history in the living historic landscape of West Penwith.
She explores ancient sites ranging from Neolithic quoits to Iron Age settlements, and mysterious stone circles to holy wells precariously perched on windswept clifftops.